A Sit Down Interview with Cate Allan
Richard Allan London x Roger Oates Design sees a collaborative collection of three new hand tufted designs in four additional colourways, each honouring and reworking the original designs of Richard Allan.
Established in 1962, Richard Allan London became a defining name in the vibrant explosion of pattern and colour that defined the 1960’s. His boldly printed silk scarves emerged as iconic pieces of wearable art and today, his daughter Cate Allan has collaborated with us to welcome these designs into the world of interiors – in the form of contemporary hand tufted wool rugs.
In this article, we sit down with Cate Allan to discuss the incredible legacy of her father’s work and the natural progression towards this collaborative collection.
Richard Allan London was established in 1962. Could you share some background on how the brand began and what defined its early identity?
My father trained in Lyons and on his return to London, he went to work for Jacqmar where he became Head of Design for ten years. In 1962 new ownership of Jacqmar was taking a path away from the more couture end of the market which prompted my father to establish his own design house, Richard Allan Scarves. Buyers who loved and knew his work, and of course saleability, moved with him and he continued to sell very successfully in stores worldwide for the following twenty years.
Could you tell us about your father, Richard Allan, his approach to design, his work ethic, and what set his creative process apart?
My father was very driven, very surefooted in his vision of a design and his workings with colour. He looked at the world with eyes that saw line and design in everything: architecture, nature, clothing, interiors, cars… He lived and breathed colour; the interior of our Georgian house, classically proportioned, was designed largely by him – I think back to wonderful bold wallpapers, a burnt orange carpet offsetting a marble fireplace, and latterly decorating a barn conversation, painting a high gable ceiling scarlet with a sofa of black raw silk cover and brightly coloured silk cushions. So, the silk scarves were a perfect canvas for him. Producing multiple colour ways of designs at the height of the sixties and seventies, his silk scarves were greatly loved and I think what set them apart was his ability to take this staple of generations and, with his use of abstract pattern and colour, make it possible for women to embrace the boundary-pushing Sixties with a just a touch of flare, bridging the divide between old-school conformity and liberated self-expression.
When did you decide to become involved in the brand, and what motivated that decision?
I went to work, or apprentice with my father after I left school. However, my father had developed severe Parkinson’s disease in his forties and within a couple of years of my working at Richard Allan Scarves, he had to retire due to his illness. I was simply not experienced or old enough to pick up the reins and the company was sold. It was a difficult time, needing to completely rethink my future.
Some thirty years later after quite a different career, I decided I really wanted to try and pick up where I left off. After some research, I managed to get in touch with the owners. Their business had moved on to other projects and they were happy for me to use my father’s archive. Initially I made limited editions fine art prints of original scarf designs. In time, I was being asked for silk scarves, and as the very heart of the company, I was really excited to take this path too.
What inspired you to relaunch the brand for a modern audience?
Initially I wanted to do this for myself, to reconnect with something that had been lost. When the prints were met with such enthusiasm, it became clear there was a modern audience for these designs, no matter the medium. They are unique and truly timeless; it’s wonderful to see people of all ages respond to them with the same joy I feel.
One of the most rewarding parts has been seeing a new generation wearing the scarves and displaying the prints in their homes. It’s proof that this era of design still speaks across generations. Our collaboration with H&M in 2019 was another special moment which introduced my father’s work to a whole new audience and reminded me how powerful and relevant great design can remain over time.
The bold prints and patterns are iconic of their era. Why was it important for you to preserve and celebrate these original designs?
My father had an incredible eye for design and colour and built a career he truly loved. Sadly, his illness brought that to an end far too soon. My siblings and I grew up surrounded by design and colour – we loved visiting the Duke Street showroom, were absorbed by rolls and neatly stacked rows of many shades of silk, it was an integral part of our make-up. With the company gone so abruptly, I felt a strong need to regain and preserve his work.
The more time I spent with the designs, the more I appreciated their brilliance. It’s an extraordinary collection, a true reflection of its era, and reviving it has become not just a mission, but a joy.
Do you have a favourite design from the Richard Allan archives? What personal meaning does it hold for you?
It goes without saying that I love all three designs that we have chosen for our collaboration: Manhattan, Pebble and Dotty.
On relaunching the company, Manhattan was the very first design I selected to release as a limited-edition print. I love its deceptive understatement – the more you look the more you see the cleverness and movement of the design. And on a personal note, following my father’s retirement, I moved to NYC where I lived for many years, a home from home and very close to my heart.
Manhattan hand tufted rug
Not in the rug collection but also a very favourite is Elsa – it screams Sixties with great elegance. I found it whilst going through many, many beautiful designs and I knew this one was very special; it is a design greatly loved by our customers, scarf, artwork print and cushions.
What made Roger Oates Design feel like the right partner for a rug collaboration?
A shared background of British Design and British craftsmanship: rooted in heritage but driven by a contemporary outlook, I believe that Richard Allan London and Roger Oates Design are naturally aligned in design sensibility, use of colour and respect for quality.
Both brands believe deeply in considered design, UK-based production and responsible material choices. Our approaches are grounded in tradition, but we’re constantly evolving, experimenting with colour, pattern and texture to create something timeless yet modern.
Every piece is carefully curated in palette and detail and working with clients on bespoke projects, both companies achieve tailored, distinctive, project-specific pieces that feel personal and enduring.
Although Richard Allan London was established some twenty years before Roger Oates Design, the parallels between the two companies are striking. Both hold rich design archives that naturally complement one another, and both are revisiting and reinterpreting these works to inspire new creations, innovation built on heritage.
For both brands, inspiration flows from the natural world, art, architecture and fashion. That shared curiosity and willingness to experiment keeps their design language evolving: for us, that has brought us to a beautiful rug collection with Roger Oates, connecting our heritage pieces with contemporary interiors and ensuring that both brands remain dynamic, relevant and true to their roots.
The designs carry a strong Sixties heritage yet remain strikingly contemporary. Is this sense of timelessness something you aim to bring to new pieces in the collection?
Absolutely! The designs do carry a very strong Sixties heritage but, honestly, they feel just as timeless today. A large part of my work and one of the most enjoyable parts is colouring designs and this too keeps them fresh and contemporary. Collaborations, such as this, are a perfect way to bring new and different pieces into the collection.
Richard Allan designs are instantly recognisable. How do you ensure this distinct identity carries forward into new work?
I agree they are instantly recognisable and with such a wonderful archive, I have worked solely with the original Richard Allan sixties and seventies designs. This is an incredible resource and naturally ensures that the identity continues. It is possible that, in time, I might introduce new designs. I believe I have my father’s eye for colour, and perhaps the design gene has been passed on too. But for now, with such a wealth of outstanding designs in the archive, there is still so much to explore.
The scarves are printed and hand-finished in the UK. As a brand proud of British craftsmanship, how important is it to you to continue working with British makers and manufacturers?
Working with British makers and manufacturers has always been central to everything we do. It’s something my father believed in, and we’ve carried that commitment forward. Everything we make is produced exclusively in the UK. It’s more than just a point of pride, it’s part of our story, our heritage and the soul of the brand. That connection to British craftsmanship is what gives each piece its authenticity and individuality.
Homes today are curated with meaning, where pieces are chosen for their story rather than trends alone. Do you believe objects and furniture in our homes should carry significance, and if so, why?
I think the most inspiring homes are those that tell a story. When the pieces around us hold meaning, they create a deeper connection to the space we live in. Objects and furniture chosen for their significance, whether that’s the story behind their design, the craftsmanship involved or the emotion they evoke, bring warmth and character that trends alone can’t achieve. For me, I like home to feel lived in and layered, reflecting not just my style but a sense of history and personality. When design carries meaning, it becomes timeless, something to be cherished, not replaced.
How do you bring bold pattern and colour into your own home?
For a start, with quite a few Richard Allan designs! I have a trio of our Maren prints across one wall of my sitting room and another, Soire Noire (‘Black Silk’ with rich coloured fluid lines, reminiscent of the colours in my father’s sitting room). I am hoping to add in a Richard Allan x Roger Oates rug, almost certainly Manhattan. I love to layer old with new: I collect 1930s coloured glass which brings luminosity with colour and I love book covers arranged by colour on shelves. A mix of fabric in varying tones and patterns, each texture holding colour differently, achieves depth, warmth and comfort. I rearrange things often and always enjoy the fresh perspective it brings.
What excites you most about the future of the Richard Allan London brand?
What excites me most? Honestly, so much. We’re currently working on a new silk scarf collection and naturally scarves remain at the very heart of the company. We’ve also just released beautiful new Limited Edition Prints, and I look forward, in time, to a small number of carefully chosen collaborations with exceptional British makers, such as Roger Oates, whose craftsmanship, heritage and values truly compliment Richard Allan London.
I have a notebook filled with ideas for other ways our designs might be brought to life – for interiors, for clothing and beyond. It’s a wonderful part of my job to sit with a new curation of archival designs and reimagine them on another beautifully crafted medium.
We consider each new project with great care, ensuring it honours the integrity of the designs, celebrates British craftsmanship and continues my father’s legacy in a thoughtful and authentic way. These are exciting new chapters in that legacy, and I like to think he would be proud.
We couldn’t have chosen a more natural partnership for this latest collection, with both Roger Oates Design and Richard Allan London deeply rooted in heritage, whilst still possessing a shared passion and drive towards contemporary aesthetic and bold design. With three core designs within the collection, each available in curated colourways that range from striking brights to quiet neutrals, explore the full collection here.
